Every time I head out for a paddle, I see the same scene—an old surfer hobbling into the water, clinging to his decades-old shortboard like it’s a relic of glory days long gone. His body’s worn down—busted shoulder, replaced knee—but his mindset? Even more stuck in the past. Fifty years of doing the same thing, in the same way, while the world of possibilities floats right by him. Meanwhile, I’m on my SUP, cruising up and down the beach, catching waves, getting stronger. It’s not just about the board—it’s about the mindset. Where’s the curiosity? The willingness to think differently, try something new, and evolve? Instead, I see fear—fear of change, fear of what the mates might say. It’s a life spent resisting growth, and that, more than anything, is what leaves them broken, both physically and mentally.
Read More